We’ve seen a lot now…so many things in fact that we need this blog to look back on to keep it all straight in our minds! It’s hard to believe that it’s been 5 months since Ben, Dan & the boys left for Vancouver (and 4 for me).
One thing I hope we don’t forget too soon was Waitomo Caves. In Maori wai means water and tomo, hole. We decided to buy a pass to see all three caves in one day because each one is very different. Aranui Cave was first, and luckily it was a ‘private tour’ (by accident of course) and it was incredible. From the moment we entered it was a feast of large stalactites, and each turn took us into more caves of incredible formations that are quite hard to describe and even more difficult to capture on film. The boys favourite was one that looked just like a witch and mine was a river of pure white that seemed to pour down the cave wall.
See the witch?
Second was Ruakari Cave where you enter via a new man-made entrance built specifically to bypass a Maori grave site. To impress visitors, there is a 50 ft deep winding spiral shaft that looks like something the Doctor Who team might have dreamt up. As you enter you are asked to spiritually cleanse your hands under spring water running onto a rock in the centre- very atmospheric. This is also the cave where the Blackwater Rafting takes place, basically rubber ringing through the underwater river in the dark (too scary for us – although Ben remembers doing it on his last gap year). Last, but not least, was the Glow-Worm Cave that included a dark underground boat trip to see the tens of thousands of glow-worms that form a dazzling milky way on the ceiling of the cave. Awed silence.
From Waitomo, we drove east to Rotorua to stay at a ‘bach’ called The Shearers Retreat recommended by the Dishmans. This was a little bit of farming history, as it was the original accommodation of the transient sheep shearers who would come to the area for their annual work. For us it was the perfect place to unwind, as it was both rustic and cosy and on a small farm owned by Celia, John and their 3-year-old daughter Kiara. The boys loved it when Celia took them on her quad bike to feed the chickens and egg hunt with Kiara, and before we left John took them for a ‘burn’ in his replica Lotus 7 that he was in the final stages of building!
Rotorua is well-known for it’s geo-thermal activity, and as soon as you enter the town you can smell the rotten-egg smell of sulphur from the volcanic vents covering the landscape here. Kuirua Park is free & great for seeing these steaming, smelly vents or bubbling mud-pits but we also visited Wai-o-Tapu (Sacred Waters) to see the large scale, multi-coloured pools created by the different minerals from the vents. Beautiful but incredibly hot! The boys nearly melted, and I was disappointed by the very misleading, but beautiful Champagne Pool – not a glass in sight!
Rotorua has a lot to offer in the way of man-made entertainment too, with all the crazy Kiwi-invented activities to do, including OGO, a large plastic ball that you roll down a hill inside with water lubricating your ride. Of course, this was exactly the kind of thing Cameron loves and “best fun ever” was his summary. For the less adventurous members of the Walker household there was a trip to Rainbow Springs Kiwi Conservation where a tour of the hatching facility for baby Kiwis was a highlight. They collect Kiwi eggs from the wild where they have 5% chance of survival to incubate and hatch them here until the gorgeous little brown balls of fuzz are big enough to defend themselves thus raising their chances to 75%. And if that is not enough excitement for one day they have a water flume ride too, although not sure how the two are connected?
Our stay coincided with the Rotorua Agricultural & Pastoral Show that included something for everyone. For Ollie a ride in a WWII US Army Jeep, for Cameron challenging a NZ soldier to a leg squat competition, for Ben the other testosterone display known as the Axeman wood-chopping competition and for me the Best Llama judging, they really have the prettiest eyes.
Other highlights of Rotorua included a walk in the giant Redwood forest and Kerosene Creek, a local’s swimming spot that turned out to be a ‘hot’ water stream that was a bit weird on a really hot day.
A hot dip!
Mt Doom without the Orcs!?
From here, it was a drive south to Lake Taupo which is in the caldera left by the explosion of the Oruanui Volcano a few hundred thousand years ago – to give it some scale Krakatoa spewed out 8 cu/km of ash, this one was 750 cu/km! For us it provided a great swim stop as the water was clear and refreshing, and the views awesome. The boys went a bit Lord of the Flies on us here! Continuing the volcano theme we drove through the Tangiriro National Park and up to the ski-fields that cover the Mt Ruapehu (another still regularly active volcano). The Park also contains Mt Ngauruhoe, otherwise known as Mount Doom, since starring in the Rings series. And finally, just so it’s clear that we are all big LofRings/Hobbit fans we stayed overnight in the Hobbit Motel in Ohakune, very nice, but was not a hole in the ground – much to Ollie’s disappointment!
Then it was down to Wellington for a few days before moving onto the South Island. The boys have already blogged about Weta Workshop & Te Papa museum both of which were fantastic for kids. Wellington has a fantastic relaxed vibe, with a gorgeous harbour and city beaches. And luckily for us it wasn’t windy which is unusual, just hot and sunny – and oozing with charm.
e road took us through many towns with the original wooden buildings still intact. We’ve heard people describe New Zealand as old fashioned or stuck in the 1950s, but frankly these towns are refreshing after the usual beachside resorts of the glass modern behemoths that we are more familiar with today. After catching the Hokianga Car Ferry to Rawena we made it to the Waipoura Forest where you find the ‘Lord of the Forest ‘ Tane Mahuta, an enormous kauri tree that makes you go ‘wow’ when you see it and wow again when you realise it’s about 2000 years old!
m wedged in an inner tube too. We’d booked a small cabin here to self-cater as we’ve found sticking to a budget here harder as overall costs are much higher in NZ, plus eating out isn’t good for wallets or waistlines! The boys love staying in the parks too as there is space for them to explore and play or swim.
number of stars incredible. Chris also pointed out the famous Weta (or large bug) Long-Fin Eels (which grow up to 2 metres) and possums, which are unfortunately a predator of the poor flightless Kiwi, but are affectionately known to locals as “squash-ums” due to their frequent appearance as road-kill.
mous Cathedral Cove to see the sea carved rock arches, caves & Te HoHo rock in Mercury Bay. The weather was fantastic and the water calm and this made paddling the two-person kayaks around the coastline a littl
e easier. The water was also very clear, and as you paddle through a underwater nature reserve you can see deep below. We got to the stunning cove and our guide Terrell unpacked his boat and made us all a coffee or hot chocolate to enjoy on the beach. A rock formation sat just off the beach and never one to walk away from a challenge, Ben & Cameron swam out to climb it and of course jump off! Ollie and I were happy to snorkel and fish watch instead. Cameron now judges any “jump off” against his inaugural cliff jump at Crater Lake in Oregon back in September!!
rived that night, only to find they were in the room next door again! Spooky! We had booked the next day to do a small Dolphin Eco Boat trip to see local bottlenose dolphin pods in their natural environment and hopefully get to swim with them. Alas, we weren’t able to get in the water because the pod we that we saw had juvenile’s with it (so against the law) but they were bow-riding close enough to spray us purposely with water on the boat. A very small baby dolphin was also in a very playful mood, leaping and splashing around showing off his newly discovered acrobatic skills (but sadly too fast to photograph!) The pod was quite large and we were lucky to see so many at once up close. It was also a great chance to see the beautiful islands, and swim in some of the sheltered coves. Other highlights of Paihia for us were eating seafood & drinking cold Steinlagers while watching the boys beach-combing and rock pool crab hunting, bliss!.
in use) trading store and the original mission house from the late 19th century which is now a living museum. The tour and museum were brilliant for learning about the European and Maori interaction (and clash of cultures), the work of the early Christian missionaries and the “musket wars’ in the region. It was great to see the boys so interested and asking loads of questions. So that’s history covered today! As a reward they spent the next two hours jumping off the jetty with other local kids. As you can see Ben was right in the middle of the action.
shing obsessed since getting his rod in Chile. So he and Ben spent quite a bit of time morning and evening trying to land a ‘big one’, a snapper preferably, but typically returned full of stories of the one that got away, so it was pasta for dinner instead!.
nd out of all sorts of places we finally headed north to Cape Reinga and a walk to the lighthouse. This is one of the most sacred Maori places, where they believe all Maori souls go before heading back to the motherland in Hawaikki. It is also the place where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean. To make sure the boys got their daily dose of water we went for a late swim and boogie boarding at Rarawa Beach before heading back to the motel.
8.8 on the Richter scale, and Talca still bears the scars with many cracked or half demolished buildings. We stayed in a small hostel run by the lovely Miguel and his family. Once again the boys bonded with his son over a love of TV without speaking much of each other’s language.
ancura River. Ben & I went on the Grade 3 rapids with the boys while Tim tackled the more difficult Grade 4. It was the first time for the boys, and they were a little anxious but after the first plunge they loved it! Cameron met a boy from Brasil to chat to, of course, and Ollie got to sit at the front with Ben. The next day was my birthday and Ben & Tim took the boys zip-lining, while I relaxed by the pool with my book all on my own– very rare and very nice indeed!
