Puerto Varas & Pucón, Chilean Lakes District

We decided months ago that the Chilean Lakes District would be our ‘chilling’ time over Christmas after a few busy weeks doing the parks and glaciers. So we had pre-booked a cabanas in a popular Chilean holiday spot called Puerto Varas. It is a Germanic, log cabin town situated on Lake Llanquehue and, like most of Chile, boasts some spectacular scenery, here of lakes and volcanoes.

The Bahia Celeste Cabanas, our new home for a week, was right on the lake; good for swimming and fishing but the cabin was a bit higgledy piggledy because it was tilted somewhat! From here, we explored Petrohué Falls where the water runs though black volcanic channels, and the Volcano Osorno (2,400m high), where we hiked up to see the Roja (Red) Crater. It was a very dusty trek through volcanic ash, but the views were spectacular. (see top pic)

After a couple of days we picked Tim up from the airport and he joined us at PV. And luckily for Ollie he had managed to get his Ipad back- Uncle Tim was a hero to Ollie now!!  It also gave Ben the chance to do some action stuff with his brother, which included a days’ mountain biking in the national park. Unfortunately, Ben managed to “plant” his front wheel in the ash at around 30km/h and go over the handle-bars whilst trying to emulate the guide’s jumping skills. He later described this as an ‘epic’ fall that he proudly captured on his Go-Pro. Sadly, his badly bruised ribs are still aching 2 weeks later!

This area was a highlight for Ollie too as his wildlife count took a big jump with a trip to Isla Chiloé, Chile’s largest island. Just a few minutes after driving onto the car ferry, we were watching penguins and seals swimming alongside and groups of pelicans flying along the channel. Amazing! The island is famous for its seafood too, and we drove 100km to the capital, Castro, where we gorged ourselves at the brilliant Sorcha Restaurant (found via the Lonely Planet). Cameron, in particular, loved the fresh crab! Chiloé is also famous for the palafitos houses (built on stilts), and its numerous multi-coloured churches. After this we drove to the National Park, parked on the beach and took a boat ride to see the Magellan, and more rare Humbolt penguins. And to all our delight watched some sea otters playing in the rock pools.

The shellfish was huge!

For Christmas, we headed north to the town of Pucón, an area well known for being an outdoor adventure playground. It didn’t fail to impress. Ben & Tim took a guided walk up the 2900m high Volcano Villarrica, one of Chile’s most active volcanoes, which billows gases and actually has a lava lake in its crater. This involved climbing near vertical snow & ice slopes equipped with crampons, helmets and ice axes. Disappointingly, the guides aborted the walk at around 2300m after 5 hours’ walking because of dangerously strong winds on the summit ridge. At one point, the wind was battering the group with small ice pellets – quite painful! The trip down Villarica is a little less strenuous and a lot quicker since you slide down the slope on a round plastic sled using the ice axe as a brake.  Great fun but, as Tim found, not so much when you have Ben behind you!!

Christmas Day was more low-key; Father Christmas managed to find us here in Chile, and the boys got a camera each to help document the trip. We had a light lunch at the Trawen Restaurant in Pucon, mainly to use its WIFI to send emails. Tim & I managed to down 6 Pisco sours between us as we waited for the SLOW internet to work, while Ben’s consolation for driving was getting a juicy steak instead of pizza that he thought he had ordered (he still maintains that that he ordered a pizza but the waitress was clearly in no mood for a discussion!). The kids were happy drinking milkshakes and playing games on the ipad. We went home for more steak and seafood on the BBQ and a swim. Our accommodation here was superb, staying in the gorgeous cabins at Alun Kuyen Cabanas, overlooking Villarica Lake, and with imposing views of Volcan Villarica. The owners Daniel and Heinz, also had 3 very friendly golden retrievers which Ollie loved. We would love to come back here, it was beautiful, quiet and very relaxing.

Boxing Day was an action day as we all went white-water rafting on the Trancura River. Ben & I went on the Grade 3 rapids with the boys while Tim tackled the more difficult Grade 4. It was the first time for the boys, and they were a little anxious but after the first plunge they loved it! Cameron met a boy from Brasil to chat to, of course, and Ollie got to sit at the front with Ben. The next day was my birthday and Ben & Tim took the boys zip-lining, while I relaxed by the pool with my book all on my own– very rare and very nice indeed!

Next stop we are driving the 800km north to the capital, Santiago, where Tim flies home to Perth, and we fly to New Zealand for more outdoor fun after a few days’ sightseeing!