We decided months ago that the Chilean Lakes District would be our ‘chilling’ time over Christmas after a few busy weeks doing the parks and glaciers. So we had pre-booked a cabanas in a popular Chilean holiday spot called Puerto Varas. It is a Germanic, log cabin town situated on Lake Llanquehue and, like most of Chile, boasts some spectacular scenery, here of lakes and volcanoes.
The Bahia Celeste Cabanas, our new home for a week, was right on the lake; good for swimming and fishing but the cabin was a bit higgledy piggledy because it was tilted somewhat! From here, we explored Petrohué Falls where the water runs though black volcanic channels, and the Volcano Osorno (2,400m high), where we hiked up to see the Roja (Red) Crater. It was a very dusty trek through volcanic ash, but the views were spectacular. (see top pic)
After a couple of days we picked Tim up from the airport and he joined us at PV. And luckily for Ollie he had managed to get his Ipad back- Uncle Tim was a hero to Ollie now!! It also gave Ben the chance to do some action stuff with his brother, which included a days’ mountain biking in the national park. Unfortunately, Ben managed to “plant” his front wheel in the ash at around 30km/h and go over the handle-bars whilst trying to emulate the guide’s jumping skills. He later described this as an ‘epic’ fall that he proudly captured on his Go-Pro. Sadly, his badly bruised ribs are still aching 2 weeks later!
This area was a highlight for Ollie too as his wildlife count took a big jump with a trip to Isla Chiloé, Chile’s largest island. Just a few minutes after driving onto the car ferry, we were watching penguins and seals swimming alongside and groups of pelicans flying along the channel. Amazing! The island is famous for its seafood too, and we drove 100km to the capital, Castro, where we gorged ourselves at the brilliant Sorcha Restaurant (found via the Lonely Planet). Cameron, in particular, loved the fresh crab! Chiloé is also famous for the palafitos houses (built on stilts), and its numerous multi-coloured churches. After this we drove to the National Park, parked on the beach and took a boat ride to see the Magellan, and more rare Humbolt penguins. And to all our delight watched some sea otters playing in the rock pools.
The shellfish was huge!
For Christmas, we headed north to the town of Pucón, an area well known for being an outdoor adventure playground. It didn’t fail to impress. Ben & Tim took a guided walk up the 2900m high Volcano Villarrica, one of Chile’s most active volcanoes, which billows gases and actually has a lava lake in its crater. This involved climbing near vertical snow & ice slopes equipped with crampons, helmets and ice axes. Disappointingly, the guides aborted the walk at around 2300m after 5 hours’ walking because of dangerously strong winds on the summit ridge. At one point, the wind was battering the group with small ice pellets – quite painful! The trip down Villarica is a little less strenuous and a lot quicker since you slide down the slope on a round plastic sled using the ice axe as a brake. Great fun but, as Tim found, not so much when you have Ben behind you!!
Christmas Day was more low-key; Father Christmas managed to find us here in Chile, and the boys got a camera each to help document the trip. We had a light lunch at the Trawen Restaurant in Pucon, mainly to use its WIFI to send emails. Tim & I managed to down 6 Pisco sours between us as we waited for the SLOW internet to work, while Ben’s consolation for driving was getting a juicy steak instead of pizza that he thought he had ordered (he still maintains that that he ordered a pizza but the waitress was clearly in no mood for a discussion!). The kids were happy drinking milkshakes and playing games on the ipad. We went home for more steak and seafood on the BBQ and a swim. Our accommodation here was superb, staying in the gorgeous cabins at Alun Kuyen Cabanas, overlooking Villarica Lake, and with imposing views of Volcan Villarica. The owners Daniel and Heinz, also had 3 very friendly golden retrievers which Ollie loved. We would love to come back here, it was beautiful, quiet and very relaxing.
Boxing Day was an action day as we all went white-water rafting on the Tr
ancura River. Ben & I went on the Grade 3 rapids with the boys while Tim tackled the more difficult Grade 4. It was the first time for the boys, and they were a little anxious but after the first plunge they loved it! Cameron met a boy from Brasil to chat to, of course, and Ollie got to sit at the front with Ben. The next day was my birthday and Ben & Tim took the boys zip-lining, while I relaxed by the pool with my book all on my own– very rare and very nice indeed!
Next stop we are driving the 800km north to the capital, Santiago, where Tim flies home to Perth, and we fly to New Zealand for more outdoor fun after a few days’ sightseeing!
Hi Guys – thank you for the continuing updates on your trip around the world – it’s just like reading articles from the National Geographic magazine !!
Glad to hear you had a good Christmas! It was quite mild over here, whilst I see it was Chile where you were!!!
Hope you have a great New Year – and keep up your journals!
The Tomkins Family!
Hi Guys, thanks for the message and a very happy new year!! We are now in New Zealand and leave Auckland after 6 days to begin a 5 week tour of the north and south islands tomorrow. There’s so much to do its going to be tricky to fit it all in, but there are a few “must do’s”, including Hobbiton for the boys and glacier walking for me!!
I gather that you had a visitor for Xmas, I hope she behaved!!!
No doubt catch up soon.
Ben, Adele, Cam & Olliex
Hey Cameron we’ve not talked for ages everything looks amazing.I had a dream last night about I was there with you.Year five has being going well have you got the E-mail I sent to you.We have got a new boy called Ollie Coe who’s in Fiennes we lost every match in house matches “eh” In one match they gave us a three nil head start.Is school with you mum and dad okay.
Ps I’m sorry I’ve not Been talking.
Hi James
I’ve sent you an Email today and hopefully you will get it
from Cam
Glad to hear ‘wild man’ Walker is still up to stunt bike riding-nothing changes.
It looks like Chile has been a great adventure,your photos are superb.
Happy new year from the Browns.
Hi TB, happy new year to you all, I hope you had a good Xmas and New year. The biking was brilliant fun, but sadly I think that my days of doing jumps are now over, since I now realise that I don’t mend so easily (still taking anti-inflammatories!). We are in Auckland now and head off for a 5 week tour of the country tomorrow in a hire car (Camper too pricey!). Have spent quite a bit of time with a family from York whom we met in Buenos Aires and have a similar itinerary to ours (even on the same flight from Santiago and in the row behind, then we found that we are in next door rooms in the hotel).
Hope you are all well, love to Linda and the boys, as ever.
Cheers, BW
Sounds as if it was a wonderful month or so in South America – Adele – i don’t think i have ever seen you looking so brown!!
Glad you had a good birthday – Enjoy New Zealand!!
Hi Penny, thank you, it IS the most tanned I’ll ever be! If you look at the photos you’ll see Ollie is still a whiter shade of pale though – he just doesn’t seem to tan at all! Hope the end of your Italian adventure was a little less exciting but a whole lot more relaxing. It was great to see you and Charlotte and Sam (first time in a LONG time) on FaceTime! See you about April time I think. Met up with Robert & Marion for a fish and chip supper last night – lovely couple and gave us some good travel trips for NZ. xx
Wow. Sounds like you had a really exciting Christmas – Happy New Year to you all & we look forward to following you on the next leg of your travels!
Love Linda, Dom, Joe & Tom xxx
Thank you guys! We loved your photos with the seals – and it looked cold but lovely, so a little bit like Patagonia!! Hope all is progressing well with the house too, just imagine your next Christmas in your new kitchen. Thanks too for reading the blog and your comments to us and the boys – we all send our love and Happy New Year! xx
Guys,
Looks like you have had an awesome christmas ….. However you have forgotten a few things.
1) sprouts
2) falling asleep on the sofa whilst wearing a hat from a cracker at a jaunty angle.
3) having a full roast dinner pretty much every other day for no reason at all.
4) having to walk to the shop for more milk as by 1300 you are too “tired” to drive.
5) playing a board game with your family and having to explain the rules maybe 7 or 8 times which can take the shine off the experience.
6) putting out the bottle recycling after Christmas and experiencing THE SHAME!
If you intend to spend Christmas white water rafting, swimming and having a lovely time well it’s bloody un british. Hope Ben manages to hold onto his belongings untill his next steak…..
Love you all stay safe..
The mcdonnells..
Hi guys, thanks for this – reminds us why we are travelling! But you forgot my favourite xmas experience, queuing up at Tesco with 1 million other people with 2 trolleys worth of food for one day and wondering why you needed 2 jars of brandy butter.
Happy New Year! Ax